Thursday, July 04, 2013

Colcannon

Colcannon is an Irish dish I've always had as kale and potatoes, but I've seen a number of recipes where the kale is replaced with cabbage. I suppose they're in the same family but I don't even have to try it to know that I prefer the flavor of kale. Here's how I make it:

6-9 potatoes, washed and quartered
1 bundle curly kale, washed, stemmed, and roughly chopped
1 1/2 cups chopped onions
1 1/2 cups half & half and grated cheese*
butter
black pepper
salt
chives, if you like

* roughly 3/4 cup half & half and 3/4 cup grated cheese. don't worry too much about the proportions.

First, a discussion regarding the choice of potatoes: opinions vary. I have found that I prefer Red potatoes or Yukon Golds for Colcannon, although if I found some Roosters I would greatly enjoy putting them to the test. I have not particularly enjoyed Russet potatoes in Colcannon, but your tastes may differ. That aside, on to the cooking!

Start by putting the potatoes in a heavy-bottomed pot and filling it with water to cover by 1/4". Boil, then reduce to a simmer while you prepare and cook the rest.

Start by heating a skillet over medium heat and melting roughly 2 Tbs butter. Add the onions and cook until translucent. Add kale and let the kale steam while you attend to the potatoes.

At this time, the potatoes should be cooked through. Poke them with a fork or something to determine whether they require additional cooking time. When they're done (or mostly done, they'll continue to cook a bit from residual heat and an inconsistent texture can be a good thing), pour out most of the water and add the onions and kale.

Mash everything together, adding more butter if it seems necessary. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Serve in a mound with a pat of butter pushed into the top, so you can dip forkfuls of potato into the butter like a boss. If you enjoy chives, use them as a garnish whole or as you desire.

Colcannon is often pronounced as a concatenation of the words call and cannon with a slight rounding of the a in call.

Fresh Cheese Ravioli / Tortelloni


Filling:
4 oz Ricotta
1 1/2 cup finely grated low-moisture Mozzarella
2 oz crumbled Panelo Fresco or finely grated Parmigiano/Reggiano

Mix it up in a bowl.

Egg Noodle:
Start with a very clean counter. Your ingredients follow:

1 cup flour
1 egg
1 pinch fine-grind salt
a little water

Plop the flour down on the counter. Push down the mound of flour in the middle so as to form a well for the rest of your ingredients. Sprinkle the salt over the flour, scramble the egg, and put it in the well. Fill one half of the eggshell with water and pour it over the egg. Now, mix it all up with a fork and your hands. Press it out on the counter, adding very small amounts of water if it is too dry, small amounts of flour if it is too wet. You want the dough to pull the dough leavings off the counter when you roll it into a log, but be fully integrated (no clumps of flour in the middle).

After the dough reaches a healthy consistency, roll it into a log, press the log flat, and fold it into thirds. If you have a pasta press, follow the instructions to press out lasagna. If not, grab your rolling pin and get down to business. You want to roll it out as thin as you can, then lightly flour it, fold it into thirds, and press it out again. Repeat this step at least twice, or more if it seems necessary. After the dough has been pressed out as thinly as seems prudent, cut it into small rectangles (ravioli) or squares (tortelloni).

For Tortelloni, place a slightly rounded teaspoon of filling in the center of the dough square. Fold the dough over the filling into a triangle, gently press out excess air. Use the tines of a fork to press the last centimeter of dough together to seal the pocket, flipping the pocket to repeat on the other side. Fold the pocket back upon itself, and press the arms of the pocket together using the fork.

For Ravioli, place a slightly rounded teaspoon of filling to one side of the rectangle. Fold the dough over the filling to form a squarish packet, pressing gently to expel excess air. Use the tines of a fork to press the last centimeter of dough to seal the pocket, flipping the pocket to repeat on the other side.

Cook in boiling water 6-10 minutes, until the noodle tastes right.